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The statue of Maharaja of Darbhanga The Armenian Genocide Memorial
Bow Barracks - Captivating Calcutta
8531    Dibyendu Banerjee    21/07/2018

The old cities have a charm of their own, a specific charm that is timeless. The streets and the lanes, the buildings and the squares, are all mute witnesses of a forgotten past, and they speak of the spirit of an age-old legacy. Bow Barracks, a small area located in the heart of the city of Calcutta, just behind the Bowbazar Police Station, off Central Avenue, seems to be a city within the city that remained unchanged from its inception, flavoured with the essence of the days of its past. The barrack consists of six blocks of three-storey buildings that border the narrow lanes. The buildings look old and their brick-red paint appears to be a bit shabby, while the big windows of the buildings, painted in green, frame colourful curtains that dance gleefully now and then, with the provocation of the gentle breeze.

bow barracks
bow barracks

History says, the Bow Barracks were originally built, along both sides of an alley, which was known as Meeru Jauney Gully in those days, as a garrison for the British soldiers posted in Calcutta, during World War I. However, the British troops rejected the idea of staying in such a chaotic place, which they considered below their standards and dignity. Finally, as they preferred to stay at Fort William, the empty buildings were later rented to the steadily blossoming populace of the Anglo-Indian community of the city.

bow barracks
bow barracks

Since then, the small area, almost hidden behind the busy and buzzing markets of Central Avenue, and located inside a narrow lane, known as Bowbazar Street, later renamed B B Ganguly Street, and known as Bow Barrack, has become a small hub of the mostly Anglo-Indian population, who have lived here for generations. It is unlike the other parts of the city, a city within the city, where the brick-red buildings on both sides of the historic alley offer an exceptional visual treat. The area breathes an aura of the past and signifies the days of the colonial British era in the city with a different culture, ethnicity and warmth.

bow barracks
bow barracks

The place that usually wears a cool and silent look almost throughout the year, becomes full of life during the Christmas season with the Bow Fest, organised and run successfully for ages with homemade wine and cakes. The celebration of the gala festive days starts on December 23 and continues till the 1st of January, when the age-old monotonous red buildings are decorated with lights and streamers. Before the onset of the celebration, a huge stage is erected in the middle of the road to provide a platform for the week-long musical performances. Cakes and wine are made in huge quantities at each home and distributed indiscriminately. A dance competition is also organised where residents across age groups participate and enjoy themselves. This is also the home-coming season for many ex-residents and relatives of many residents of Bow Barracks, who are now living abroad.

bow barracks
The statue of Maharaja of Darbhanga The Armenian Genocide Memorial
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Author Details
Dibyendu Banerjee
Ex student of Scottish Church College. Served a Nationalised Bank for nearly 35 years. Authored novels in Bengali. Translated into Bengali novels/short stories of Leo Tolstoy, Eric Maria Remarque, D.H.Lawrence, Harold Robbins, Guy de Maupassant, Somerset Maugham and others. Also compiled collections of short stories from Africa and Third World. Interested in literature, history, music, sports and international films.
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